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CARE AND CLEANING OF YOUR ORIENTAL CARPET

Caring For Your Rug

If Oriental rugs have survived centuries in comparatively good condition, it is because of careful treatment. Oriental rugs will give remarkably long service if treated with proper consideration. Their two enemies, apart from the inevitable destructive effect of wear, are moths and dampness. The former is best kept at bay by frequent moving or handling and by regular exposure to light and air. If rugs must be stored, then inspection at intervals is essential. A carpet in use is rarely in danger from moths. Certain chemical applications will render the wool inedible to moths. Dampness will in time rot the threads and destroy the fabric but it can be avoided by obvious means. If any mechanical damage is sustained such as cuts or burns, the damage should be dealt with as soon as possible, for such lesions get worse very quickly. In ordinary use, quite apart from accident, the ends and sides often tend to wear and fray in which case the parts should be re-overcast. Places in the middle of the carpet that are locally worn or damaged can have new knots inserted, and even large holes can be restored so as to be almost as good as new, though such work is rather expensive. In carpets of lesser value, instead of new knotting, patches cut from a suitable rug can often be inserted at less cost, and sometimes a serviceable small rug can be made from a larger worn one by cutting away the bad parts.

Rotation

Frequently rotate the rug from sunny areas to the other side of the room to equalize the effect of the sun. Continuous exposure to bright hot sun rays and even indirect sunlight will cause damage to the dyed fabrics used in Oriental rugs. On bright sunny days, use window shades, shutters or heavy curtains to reduce the sun damage. Also, in terms of fading, sometimes gases and fumes (from furnaces, cooking stoves, chimneys and auto exhausts) mix with oxygen and humidity in the atmosphere to form an acid. This acid reacts on the wool and causes deterioration and discoloration. Usually faded areas are hidden by soil and will not be apparent until the surface has been cleaned. In this case, contrast of color fading could be avoided by rotating rugs from time to time to make fading or soiling uniform and by changing their places so that all parts of the rug will have a chance for equal exposure.

Padding

Good quality padding protects the rug, especially in heavily trafficked areas. The best padding is a hair or fiber filled pad with rubberized surfaces to keep the rug from moving or wrinkling. The life of an Oriental rug can be doubled with the use of a good quality pad.

Hanging

Before hanging carpets on the wall, one should be certain that the warp threads can stand the strain. Do not use nails or staples at the top of a heavy rug to hang it for a long period of time. Use a strong poster holder to distribute the weight of the rug evenly.

Storing

If a rug is to be stored for a long period of time, use sheet or cloth to wrap it, but do not use an airtight plastic bag. Oriental rugs need to breathe and they will sometimes rot or mildew in a plastic bag. They could also be rolled up and kept in a chest with some paradichlorobenzene crystals, which will have to be renewed every few months. Ideally, large carpets should be rolled around poles, the protruding ends of which should rest on blocks or trestles. It is advisable to let carpets lie flat on top of one another for any length of time. Do NOT store rugs in a humid, damp, warm or poorly ventilated room. This causes mildew that usually has a musty odor, discolors fabrics, and weakens them so that they fall in pieces. Never leave an Oriental rug wet. Failure to remove all of the moisture might result in mildew. Do NOT store an Oriental rug in a hot closet. The base of a rug can dry out and become brittle, destroying the strength and durability of the rug.

Moths

Moths can cause extensive damage to Oriental rugs. Not only do moths eat pile but they also eat the knots on the back of a rug. Moths are especially attracted to areas such as those under furniture that remain relatively undisturbed. It is quite simple to eliminate these pests and safeguard against their return. Both front and back of a carpet should be sprayed about every six months with any one of a number of available moth sprays.

Crushed Pile

To up-right the pile that are indented or crushed by legs of heavy furniture, brush the depressed area with a soft brush and faintly moisten the area by a spray and follow-up by brushing.

Cleaning

The beauty and life of Oriental rugs are vitally dependent on their cleanliness. Lack of maintenance will contribute to loss in the potential investment.

Vacuuming

Never vacuum against the nap of the rug (the direction of the nap can easily be determined by running the hand across the pile from fringe to fringe). Vacuuming against the nap also presses dirt back into the rug. Never vacuum the rugs' fringes. The continued catching of the fringe in the suction of a vacuum cleaner causes the fringes to break and tear. Sweeping with a broom will give the best result. As a general rule, always vacuum with a low-level suction using a new bag.

General Procedure

Always rub or brush lightly from the outer edge toward the center of the stain to prevent spreading or causing "the ring" when using solvents, especially on twist rugs and pile carpets. On old, dry or stubborn stains, saturate, blot, and brush. Repeat this operation as often as necessary to remove the stain completely.

Spot Cleaning

For spot cleaning there are two general categories of stains, and both are treated very differently. The first is water-based stains. This includes soda, juice, wine, and coffee. The second is oil-based stains. These include tar, lipstick, and grease. Most water based stains can be removed by using a white towel to blot the spill followed by a mild dishwashing detergent diluted with water at a ratio of about one capful per quart. Then flush the rug once or twice with water. Make sure to test the cleaning mixture first on an inconspicuous area of the rug, for color runs, etc. And do not leave any soap in the rug, as this will discolor and harm the rug's foundation. If you get to the spill before it dries, you have a much better chance of catching it before it stains. For oil based stains, blot the spill with a white towel, and then clean with a dry cleaning fluid (found at hardware stores). Do not use the typical carpet cleaning solutions found at local grocery stores. These may discolor your rug or leave a residue.

Stain Removal Package

You have to move fast, which means you should keep close at hand, at all times, a little box containing the following:
Dry cleaning fluid
Alcohol
Glycerin
Sponges
Clean cloths
Brush
Mild detergent (containing no alkalis or bleaches)
White vinegar
Weak ammonia 7% solution

Tips on Cleaning Stains

Do it fast.
Blot up excess spills with paper towels. Do not rub.
Apply antidote(s) as shown on list with a clean dry cloth, working from edge to center.
Do not soak.
Pat with paper towels. Dry with fan or hair blower.
Restore pile with a brush.

Candle Wax

Place a blotter or brown paper bag over the spot. Put a hot iron over the blotter. Wait a few minutes until the wax is absorbed into the blotter. Repeat if necessary. Move the iron constantly, and do not let it stay in one place.

Chewing Gum

Press ice cubes against spot. Wait until it becomes brittle and breaks off. Use spot remover to vanish last traces.

Glue

Saturate the spot with a cloth soaked in vinegar or alcohol.

Ink From Ball Point Pen

Saturate the spot with hairspray. Allow to dry. Brush lightly with a solution of water and vinegar.

Spot and Stain Removal Procedure

Procedure A	Procedure B	Procedure C	Procedure D	Procedure E
Detergent	Cleaning Fluid	Detergent	Detergent	Detergent
Blot	Blot	Blot	Blot	Blot
Vinegar	Detergent	Amonia	Vinegar	Amonia
Blot	Blot	Blot	Blot	Blot
Detergent	Water	Amonia	Detergent	Vinegar
Blot	Blot	Blot	Blot	Blot
Water	Amonia	Detergent	Water	Detergent
Blot	Blot	Blot	Blot	Blot
	Detergent	Water		Water
	Blot	Blot		Blot
	Water
	Blot

Alphabetical Stain Treatment Index

Acid	D	Cosmetic	B	Lipstick	A	Sauce	A
Alcoholic Bev.	A	Crayon	B	Machine Oil	B	Shortening	A
Ammonia or Alkali	A	Egg	B	Mayonnaise	B	Soft Drink	E
Beer	E	Excrement	B	Mercurochrome	E	Soy Sauce	B
Berries	E	Fish Slime	B	Merthiolate	E	Starch	B
Blood	D	Fruit Juice	E	Metal Polish	A	Tar	B
Butter	B	Furniture Polish	B	Milk	A	Tea	D
Candy(sugar)	A	Gravy	A	Mixed drinks	E	Tooth Paste	A
Carbon Black	B	Hair Oil	B	Mud	A	Urine	D
Catsup	B	Hair Spray	B	Mustard	E	Varnish	B
Charcoal	A	Hand Lotion	B	Paint	B	Vaseline	B
Chocolate	D	Ice Cream	B	Perfume	A	Vomit	B
Coffee	E	Lacquer	B	Rust	A	Washable Ink	A
Cooking Oil	B	Lard	D	Salad Dressing	B	Wine	E

Rug Repair

If you begin to notice any fraying or unraveling on the fringes or edges of your rug it is ready for professional repairs. Shortness of the fringe length may tip you off also to needed rug repairs on the fringes.

Unraveling Fringes

The first step is to secure or stop the damage from unraveling into the rug borders. The method that is employed is called overcasting, which described weaving wool throughout the warp threads and fringe ends. After completing the overcasting, sewing each turn individually with needle and thread secures each fringe tightly.

Worn Fringe

Are power-fringed by equipment in a fraction of the time. You can choose any colors, lengths or styles to properly go with your rug colors.

Worn Edges

The edges will need to be re-wrapped by hand to the original color and texture of the rug. If the foundation or edge cording is worn through it will first have to be re-built. Machine made rugs with worn edges are surged in a fraction of the time on a machine surger.

Tears and Cuts

Quickly have these sewn and pulled together before pile, nap, or rug body is lost.

Holes

Holes will enlarge if left unattended for too long. Reweaves on holes are easier if the warp and the weft of the rug do not have to be replaced in addition to re-piling or re-knotting. It is of utmost importance that the right yarn texture, finish, and color are matched perfectly to the existing rug. For this reason, sewing in patches has limited value especially on a good rug. Reweaving, not patching, is recommended for antique rugs.

Turned under edges. (Don't let this one go, for it will wear face pile quickly)

Try this one at home first!First turn the rug upside down and with a wet towel and hot iron place the wet towel over the edges. Next, with the hot iron on cotton setting, slowly steam the edge down straight so it will not turn under and wear prematurely when used. Let your rug dry upside down for one day. If this process does not work, bring the rug in, and we will permanently sew the edges so they do no turn under any longer.

Sprouting and end tails on the rugs surface or pile

Do not pull them out. Just trim flush with the height and length of the existing pile to blend in with the nap. Very typical in hooked rugs.

Reweaving and re-piling large area's of the nap of a thinly worn rug

This restoration measure is utilized for the best antique rugs for it will take several weeks of work to employ and finish. Make sure it is justified by having the rug appraised first.

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